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Diving for Pearls
Karen Kimsey-House departed the CTI office to lead back-to-back Leadership Retreats just as Marcia Norris returned to the office from an adventure in learning. So, Marcia is guest blogging her thoughts this week to give Karen a break.
On my second day of surfing, the swells were larger than day one: thigh to waist high compared to knee high. The waves in each set were fairly close together and the sets rolled in rapid succession. Pretty lively conditions if you know what you are doing, which I did not. The day was a wash, literally. But if you look at it right you can learn a lot even from a wash.
Our SwellWomen instructors were setting us up in position two and three at a time to take advantage of the wave sets. I just focused on the instructions being shouted at me and took off ahead of the first wave of a set, listened for the “up” shout, and promptly pearled–short for ’pearl dive‘. My weight was too far forward on the surfboard which buried the nose in the water. There is no controlling a pearled board and I got tossed off and went under just behind the break.
7:20 am: surfboards and beginner breaks at Guardrails, Lahaina, Maui, HI.
But a 12 foot longboard is very buoyant and mine was still on the surface caught in the whitewater and heading toward shore without me–but only for the split second it took for the length of the leash to run out. A leash connects the tail of the surfboard to your ankle as a safety measure so if separated, the two of you have a chance to find each other in the water.
But reuniting with my board would have to wait because I was on my back underwater being pulled rapidly toward shore by one ankle. Laughing to myself the whole time, I should add, because despite being rolled I was having a great time. After a little kicking and maneuvering I got to my feet in chest high water and reached for my leash. Too late. I turned just in time to see the second wave of the set bearing down on me: I was standing in the impact zone without control of my board.
The only choice was to suck in the biggest breath I could and go with it. Being worked over by whitewater is described as ’getting maytagged‘–as in washing machine. I moved much quicker this time to get to my feet, grabbed my leash, pulled hard, and got my arm around my board. But the sets were tightly spaced and wave three hit me, ripped away my board, and took me under yet again.
I wasn‘t scared but also not laughing anymore because three times under with very little breathing in between was enough fun for one day. I just focused on achieving a safe position ON my board because wave number four was right there ready to destroy. Highly motivated at this point, I dragged my board to me and pulled myself up onto my belly, holding tight to the rails (sides of the surfboard). The whitewater of wave four pushed me out of the impact zone.
A bit of rest onshore was in order. The whole experience lasted two or three minutes total, but pounded most of the energy right out of my body. That day may have been an adventure in a washing machine, but it was on gentle cycle. I learned that the safest place to be is on your surfboard. If you are not on a surfboard your only thought should be getting onto one.
I‘m really glad I had this experience on my second day of surfing. The starter success and fun from day one was enough to know that I wanted to keep learning so making this rookie mistake on day two reminded me to be in the moment when on the water. The safest topic of thought while on a surfboard is surfing. I‘d have to let go of thoughts of everything else.
Where is your favorite place to be living in the moment?
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jennet
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